"Are these earrings nickel-free?"

This question comes up for many jewelry entrepreneurs at markets and in customer inquiries. What should you answer?

Steel contains nickel, but because nickel is known to cause allergies, it can feel awkward to admit that a product isn't completely nickel-free. Does the customer understand the difference between containing nickel and releasing nickel? How should you explain it?

In this article, I'll help you answer your customers' questions about nickel.

What is the customer actually asking?

When a customer asks, "is there nickel in this jewelry?", there can be several different concerns behind the question. In asking about nickel, the customer is likely wondering whether the components might start to irritate the skin, whether the metal is safe, and whether you actually know what material the metal parts of your jewelry are made of.

When you know your own materials well, it's easy to answer your customers professionally, without unnecessary stress and uncertainty.

Containing nickel and releasing nickel are two different things

Steely Pop's jewelry findings are stainless steel. In our components we use grades 304, 316, and 316L, all of which are extremely durable and well-tolerated jewelry materials. These grades are used very widely in the jewelry industry, because their properties are well suited to prolonged skin contact.

Stainless steel is a metal alloy. Grades 304, 316, and 316L always contain nickel.
So nickel isn't in the steel by accident or as an impurity. It's an intentional part of these stainless steels' composition and affects properties such as ductility, workability, and corrosion resistance.

For the wearer, the important question is: does the material release more nickel onto the skin than the permitted amount?

High-quality steel grades 304, 316, and 316L generally release very little nickel or none at all. In everyday language, these steels are therefore sometimes described as "nickel-free," even though, strictly speaking, it's really that nickel release is very low or nonexistent.

However, stainless steel shouldn't be called nickel-free. Since the material actually does contain nickel, the claim of being nickel-free doesn't hold up when it comes to steel.

Is there something else worth saying instead of nickel-free? Yes, there is.

What can you say instead of nickel-free?

You don't need to give the customer a long explanation of metal alloys. Often, precise material information and one clear sentence about safety are enough.

For example:

The earring hooks are stainless steel 316 and meet the EU requirements for nickel release.

Or:

The earring studs and backs are stainless steel 304. Steely Pop monitors the quality of its jewelry findings with regular laboratory tests.

You can also use the term nickel-safe as a short, easy-to-understand description, as long as you explain what it means to the customer. For example, like this:

The earring hooks are nickel-safe stainless steel 304. By nickel-safe we mean that the components meet the EU requirements for nickel release.

Customer asks: "Are these nickel-free?"

The customer's question about nickel-free easily forces you into a setup where:

• nickel-free automatically looks good
• containing nickel automatically looks suspicious.

The customer uses the term familiar to them. Current legislation, however, is interested in nickel release. So you can gently redirect the customer's question a little.

You can answer them something like this:

The hooks aren't completely nickel-free, but they're stainless steel and they meet the EU requirements for nickel release. What matters in use is precisely how much nickel is released from the material onto the skin.

Customer asks: "Can these cause an allergy?"

When this question comes up, tell the customer what's known about the product, but leave room for individual differences.

You can answer them something like this:

The hooks are high-quality stainless steel, and they meet the EU requirements for nickel release. Many people who are sensitized to nickel prefer steel earring hooks specifically, because they don't usually cause a problem. That said, I can't give a fully certain guarantee, because everyone reacts individually.

Customer asks: "Why is there nickel in steel?"

When your customer asks about nickel, their underlying concern is probably about a possible allergy risk. They may not know that nickel can be bound into the material without any harm to the wearer.

You can answer them like this:

Nickel is part of the metal alloy in stainless steel and affects the material's properties. In jewelry use, what's decisive isn't only whether the steel contains nickel, but how much of it is released onto the skin.

Customer asks: "Has this jewelry been tested?"

If the finished piece hasn't been to a laboratory, don't call it lab-tested. Instead, describe what the testing and quality control cover.

You can answer like this:

The finished piece hasn't been to a lab, but the steel components I've used in it are from Steely Pop, which monitors the safety of its jewelry findings with regular laboratory tests.

Note: at Steely Pop, our quality control is based on external laboratory tests. This does not mean, however, that every single component we sell has been to a laboratory.

Read more in our article about our quality control.

Summary: what should a jewelry entrepreneur remember about nickel?

Stainless steel shouldn't be called nickel-free, because the steel grades commonly used in jewelry findings — 304, 316, and 316L — contain nickel.

For jewelry safety, what matters is nickel release, which is limited by EU requirements. Nickel can therefore be used in jewelry manufacturing, but the finished piece cannot release more of it than the permitted amount.

A stronger and more professional message than "nickel-free" comes from:

• stating the precise materials of each part of the piece
• limiting the information to the parts it actually concerns
• mentioning that the EU requirements for nickel release are met
• highlighting the supplier's quality control and laboratory testing
• not promising for certain how any individual person's skin will react.

A customer usually doesn't ask about nickel because they want to know the exact composition of the metal alloy. They want to know whether the material is safe, whether the jewelry might irritate their skin, and whether you as the maker have looked into the quality of the components you use.

Wishing you every success in your jewelry business!

Liisa

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Frequently asked questions about nickel and jewelry materials

What does nickel-safe mean?

Nickel-safe means that a piece of jewelry or a jewelry component meets the EU requirements for nickel release. The word does not mean that the material contains no nickel at all.

If you use the word in a product description, for example in your online store, explain its meaning too, like this: "By nickel-safe we mean that the steel parts of the jewelry meet the EU requirements for nickel release."

What does nickel release mean?

Nickel release means how much nickel comes off a piece of jewelry in contact with the skin. A material can contain nickel but release so little of it that it meets the EU requirements for jewelry. Nickel release can be studied in a laboratory under conditions that mimic the jewelry's actual use.

What does meeting the EU nickel requirements mean?

It means that the parts of the finished piece of jewelry that touch the skin may not release more nickel than the limit defined in the EU. For components placed in a piercing hole, such as earring studs, the release limit is less than 0.2 micrograms per square centimeter per week. For other parts that touch the skin directly and for prolonged periods, the limit is 0.5 micrograms.

When you sell your jewelry, for example in an online store, exact units of measurement don't usually need to be mentioned in the product description. A simple mention is often enough for the customer, such as: "The earring studs meet the EU requirements for nickel release."

Can XRF confirm that a piece of jewelry meets the EU nickel requirements?

No, it can't. XRF can determine what elements a jewelry component contains and how much of them there are at the point measured. So XRF can show that steel contains nickel, but it doesn't tell you how much nickel is released from the material onto the skin.

The EU nickel requirements are specifically based on nickel release. Nickel release is studied with a laboratory test according to the EN 1811 standard. An XRF result cannot show that a piece of jewelry meets the EU requirements for nickel release.

Can a pharmacy nickel test confirm that a piece of jewelry meets the EU requirements?

No, it can't. The nickel test solution available at a pharmacy is a quick test. The surface of the object being tested is rubbed with a cotton swab moistened with the test solution, and a pink color change suggests that nickel has been detected. The test can be useful for home use, but it does not equal a standard laboratory test.

Are jewelry findings tested for anything other than nickel?

Yes. Nickel release is only one aspect of the chemical safety of jewelry findings. In its quality control, Steely Pop also tests jewelry findings for lead and cadmium content. With nickel, what's examined is the amount released onto the skin, whereas with lead and cadmium, what's limited is their content in jewelry and jewelry findings.

What do I do if a customer had an allergic reaction to my jewelry?

Ask the customer to stop wearing the jewelry, at least until the symptoms have calmed down. The cause of an allergic reaction cannot be determined from symptoms alone, since similar symptoms can also be caused by other materials, glue, friction, or an earring back that's too tight. If the symptoms are strong, persistent, or spreading, the customer should contact a healthcare professional.

Calmly find out which piece of jewelry was involved and what materials were used in it. If the metal parts used in the piece are from Steely Pop, please contact us as well. We want to hear if someone has had symptoms while wearing them. In your message, tell us which products were used in the piece and, if possible, when they were ordered.

A single skin reaction doesn't automatically mean that there's a safety issue with your jewelry or its components, since sensitivities are highly individual.

What should I say about jewelry materials on my product page?

Describe as precisely as possible what material the parts of the jewelry that touch the skin are made of. In earrings, these are usually the post or hook, the back, and any other metal parts that go against the skin. If a part is coated, mention both the coating and the material underneath.

For example:

The earring studs and backs are stainless steel 316L. The decorative piece is polymer clay.

Or:

The earring hooks are 18K gold PVD-coated stainless steel 304.

You can also mention that the Steely Pop steel parts you use meet the EU requirements for nickel release and that their quality is monitored with laboratory tests. Always limit the claim to the parts it actually concerns. This way the product description sounds professional and gives the customer a clear picture of what they're buying.